Friday, January 25, 2008

new zealand's gnarly north island

As most or all of you know, we are back home now in wintery St. Louis. We want to finish telling you all about our trip though, so hopefully in the next few days we'll get too! And if it keeps snowing and sleeting like it is today, I just might get to send out some of our pictures as well! So, to continue on with the blog, I believe I left off with our arrival to the North island of New Zealand so that is where I will begin.


We left Wellington after a short stop-over to download pictures and do some research on Fiji and headed for National Park, a small town just outside of the Tongariro National Park. We planned to do the Tongariro Crossing the following day and so we did! The Tongariro Crossing is an 18.5 km/11.5 mile hike across volcanic terrain, past thermal vents pouring steam from below the ground, beautiful Emerald Lakes and out through a bit of rainforrest. It's quite challenging and takes about 8 hours to complete but boy was it worth it!

We started about 8am and our bus picked us up from the other end at 4pm, we just made it! We took an extra side trip to hike up Mt. Tongariro which gave us great views across the national park and to other volcanic mountains. One of the highlights was feeling the steam bellow out of the earth's crust and smelling the sulfur which indicated thermal activity. The hike came highly recommended to us and we would definitely recommend it as a must-do to anyone going to New Zealand.

From National Park, we spent one night in Lake Taupo and then headed up through Roturura and into the Coromandel Peninsula. The whole North island seems to be harbouring thermal activity just under the serface so there is a huge focus on thermal baths, steam vents and volcanic activity in general. It's also a great place to experienc some of the Maori culture which unfortunately we ran out of time for.

By the time we reached the Coromandel Peninsula, we were in need of a sun-tan top-up and some beach time again! Luckily we had the opportunity to hang out on Whangamata beach for most of the day and then made our way to Hot Water Beach in the afternoon. Hot Water Beach gets it's name b/c at low tide people come to dig holes for themselves to sit in and enjoy the thermal waters that bubble up under the sand. We were there at high tide so we didn't get to experience this but the beach was pretty and the waves were strong so it was a beautiful site nonetheless.

After Coromandel, we headed to Auckland where we returned the van (sad to see it go...), caught up on laundry and prepared to relax and adjust to "Fiji time", a term we were getting quite familiar with. We opted to fly to Fiji w/o a plan and see what sounded good once we got there. It ended up being a good way to enjoy the blissful Fijian life!

Love,
Renee & Chuck

Pictures from top to bottom: (Mt. Tongariro w/ kiwi sign, beginning of the Tongariro Crossing, Mt. Ngauruhoe, Emerald Lakes, steam vents behind us (and the next installment of Chuck's FFH), Whangamata Beach, sunset on Coromandel Penninsula, FFH in Auckland)

Sunday, January 13, 2008

the magnificent south island of new zealand

We arrived in New Zealand 2 weeks ago and it's been an amazing ride since then! We flew into Christchurch and arrived a day late due to a 5 hour delay leaving Melbourne. No bother to us though b/c Qantas had to pay for our meals and put us up in a nice hotel for the night in Auckland, which kept us spoiled for one more night after all of our nice stays with friends.

Our first impressions of Christchurch were excellent. It's a beautiful little town with lots of restaurants and shops, pubs and travel agents ready to book any adventure you can think of. New Zealand is all about adventure and we quickly realized that you could easily drop a ton of money on anything from white water rafting, sea kayaking, bungy jumping, helicoptor rides, glacier climbing, hiking tours, paragliding, sky diving, etc. You name it, they have it here, and the more dangerous and life-threatening, the better!

We spent 3 days in Christchurch and we were able to meet up with our new friends Michael and Helene who we met on our Fraser Island tour in Australia and are from the Netherlands. We had dinner together a couple of nights and found out we'd be following a similar path while touring around NZ so we hoped to meet up again later down the road. We did a bit of sightseeing around Christchurch including the Botanic Gardens which had a beautiful rose garden and the Christchurch Cathedral. We also went out to the suburb of Sumner which had a nice beach to visit for the day.

On the 6th we picked up our Escape campervan to begin our driving tour of the South and North Islands. We must have gotten one of the oldest vans in the Escape fleet but she's been good to us and we now have a soft spot in our hearts for her. Her name is Taniwha (pronounced Tan-ee-fa) which means good spirit in the Maori language. She's big and brown and therefore we've fondly given her the nickname, "The Big Poo". We think it's fitting, would you agree??

The first day we set off towards Mt. Cook, the tallest mountain in NZ standing at 3754 metres high. We stopped that night at beautiful Lake Tekapo and camped right on the shore of the lake. The water in Lake Tekapo and it's sister lake, Lake Pukaki is crystal clear blue because of microscopic rock particles that reflect the sun. They are gorgeous lakes and our first night of camping went off without a hitch. And what a beautiful sight we had waking up the next morning to a view of the Southern Alps over Lake Tekapo! From there we drove on up to Mt. Cook but unfortunately it was a bit rainy and overcast that day so we couldn't actually see the peak. It was a very pretty drive though and a good way to pass some time on our way to Queenstown.

Before I go any further in our journey, I should mention the in the spirit of being hippies and living out of a van for 2 weeks, Chuck has decided to express himself in a fairly unusual way. Well, normally it would be considered unusual but in Chuck's case, this is not the first time he has done it. As you may have noticed, he grew out a goatee before we left Dublin. The idea was to slowly dismantle it along the trip (mainly in NZ once we had the campervan) and so the dismantling has begun (see picture). Be on the lookout for Future Facial Hair (FFH) updates! :) (Oh yeah, and we thought the bandana was quite apropriate for this look.)

Our next major stop was Queenstown, home to every adventure activity imaginable, most prominent is bungy jumping. This is basically where commercial bungy jumping was invented and perfected by a guy named AJ Hackett and as our Rough Guide says, "Even visitors who never had any intention of parting with a huge wad of cash to dangle on the end of a thick strand of latex rubber find themselves bungy jumping in Queenstown". And so... we jumped! We jumped at the Kawarau, AJ Hackett's original jumping location with a 43 metre fall. Chuck was all go and I was a bit hesitant, not because of fear, bungy jumping has just never been an interest of mine. But I was talked into it and let me just say, it was awesome!!! More of a rush than sky diving and so thrilling! The Kawarau site is located on a bridge so you jump over a crystal clear blue river and you can even opt to dip your head in the water for a more refreshing experience. We both opted for the water option but didnt' get all too wet. Unfortunately we jumped right after each other so we didn't get any pictures of us jumping, we bought the DVD though so you all can join in on the fun when we get home. It was an awesome experience and one I would definitely do again. The only down side would be that our eyes felt like they were going to pop out and were even sore the next day, but no pain, no gain, right??? :)

Moving on from Queenstown, we headed for Te Anau for a guided tour out to the Milford Sound. This was our first real experience driving through the Southern Alps and seeing glaciers. It was a really good day out and our tour guide was full of interesting information about the area and scenery so we learned quite a bit too. One interesting fact is that Milford Sound was incorrectly named because it's actually a fjiord, not a sound. Also, the mountainous area you drive through to get to Milford is one of the most avalanche prone areas in the world and they have an average of 6 big avalanches a year during the winter season. Glad we are here in the summer! You can see the avalanche damage though which is quite interesting. It's hard to imagine the power and sound of a full force avalanche, it must be quite amazing! Our tour included a boat ride around the sound, including "encounter" experiences with nature and the wildlife. This basically meant that they stuck the nose of the boat into two waterfalls so we could "encounter" the wetness. Quite cool!
After Milford Sound, we made out way up to Franz Josef. We were lucky enough to coordinate with our friends Helene and Michael and we both booked to do the Franz Josef Glacier full day hike the following day. So, it was an early morning for us as we got kitted out with our glacier hiking gear. The company provided basically everything we needed from coats, mittens and hats, to hiking boots, wool socks and crampons. It was a pretty neat set-up. We hiked to the bottom or Terminal Base of the glacier before donning our crampons for the icy part of the hike. We spent a whole day doing this hike, with about 4 hours on the ice exploring cravases, wiggling through caves and using our ice axes to poke, chip and generally demolish anything we saw. It was a very memorable experience and one of the coolest things we've done on this trip. It's just such a different environment up there and so amazing to see.

From Franz Josef, we drove up the coast to Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks. The Pancake Rocks are a strange rock formation where they look layerd, like pancakes. Over time they have formed these huge hollowed out areas and during high tide and with a strong southerly wind, waves crash up through them making massive blow holes. Unfortunately we got there too late in the day and it was past high tide so we missed out on seeing the blow holes. The rocks were still cool to see though.

We made out way up to Nelson after that and camped just outside the town that night. We spent some time in Nelson the following day and did an afternoon sea kayaking trip in Cable Bay. I'm glad it was only a half-day trip, my arms felt like they were about to fall off! Apparently I need to buff up a bit!! It was a fun experience and we were the only two on the tour so we were able to have one-on-one attention from our guide and it was a really cruisy trip. A great way to spend the afternoon.

Today is the 14th and we took the ferry from Picton on the South Island to Wellington (the capital) on the North Island. We've got about 5 days here before we have to return Taniwha and then fly on to Fiji. Still need to plan what we're doing in Fiji... hmmm, should get working on that soon! Then we'll be home in a short 2 1/2 weeks! We can hardly believe it's almost time for us to come home! The time has flown so fast and we've enjoyed every minute of this once-in-a-lifetime experience! We're looking forward to seeing everyone back home soon!

Love,
Renee & Chuck

(Photos from top to bottom: Christchurch Cathedral, us in the Rose Garden of the Botanic Gardens in Christchurch, Taniwha, sunset at Lake Tekapo, FFH Phase II, Kuwarau bungy jumping site, our view as we jumped, us at the Southern Alps on the drive to Milford Sound, Milford Sound, Chuck making his way through a cave on Franz Josef Glacier, us with Helene and Michael on Franz Josef Glacier)

Thursday, January 10, 2008

playing catch-up

We arrived in New Zealand a week ago and we're having a blast here! But... we were having so much fun in Melbourne that I just realized I haven't finished writing about our time in Australia. So, before I put up a post about our time in NZ, here's the rest on Oz...

We left Adelaide on Dec. 20th and drove along the Great Ocean Road to Melbourne. The drive was gorgeous despite the rain. We saw beautiful coastal scenery, the highlight probably being the 12 Apostles and wildlife throughout the drive. We even got to see koalas in the wild - one more Australian animal we can check off our list! They were all hiding out in one particular part of the woods as we drove by and we were fortunate enough to pull over and spot 7 of them, curled up in balls hiding from the rain. It was awesome to see them in the wild and we were even able to get within a few feet of one who was sitting pretty low in a tree.

We took our time doing the drive over 2 1/2 days and arrived in Melbourne on December 22nd. Our friends Dave and Teresa (friends we met in Ireland who have since moved to Melbourne) met us at the car rental place and we stayed with them for a couple of days. They had a bbq that night and it was like a mini reunion of our Irish friends!!! We also got to catch up with our friend Luke who we hadn't seen in about 3 years (also met him in Dublin) and he showed us a bit of Melbourne we hadn't seen so far. So awesome to see friends again!!!

On Christmas Eve the McLean's came to collect us and we spent the next 4 1/2 days with them celebrating Christmas and seeing Melbourne and the surrounding area. It was so great to finally meet Doug and April (parents of our friend Brad who is in Ireland but not much longer...) and spend Christmas with their family! They too were awesome hosts and showed us around Melbourne and made us feel like part of the family. We even got to see National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation on Christmas evening - a tradition for us and one we thought we were going to have to miss out on this year. Luckily not!

April and Doug took us up to Healesville on the 26th to see the wildlife sanctuary up there and it was a gorgeous day out! The weather could not have been better and it was a bit warmer than it had been which we welcomed with open arms!!! We also got to try meat pies for the first time - what a treat! The 27th was spent with our friends Ross, Emma and their son Bailey, catching up and enjoying a lovely day out at some wineries near them, just south of Melbourne. Again, we could not have had better weather or a better time with the Smith's!

Next up was a visit with Carol and Phil (you guessed it... friends we met in Ireland that have moved to Melbourne... I'm seeing a trend here...) and their parents back down on the Great Ocean Road. April and Doug were incredibly generous and drove us down there via the ferry across the bay which showed us some of the beautiful coast south of Melbourne. Carol's parents were visiting from Ireland so the 6 of them had rented a house near Jan Juc Beach for the week after Christmas. They were so nice and invited us down for a couple of days and we were happy to join them and see them again. We really got to relax down there and enjoy some good beach time before heading back to Melbourne for New Year's Eve.

Dave and Teresa graciously loaned us their apartment over New Year's since they were away and we gladly accepted. Their apartment has gorgeous views over the city and it was an excellent base for us to explore more of the city on our own. We went to St. Kilda beach on the 30th and picked out a place to return to for New Year's Eve. On New Year's Eve day, we headed to Brighton Beach, which was really nice and pretty. It was boiling hot that day (42C/107F) so we were happy to be by the water. In fact, we couldn't even lay out properly b/c we felt like bacon frying in a pan!!! I had to lay on the waters edge just to stay cool enough.

That night we headed back down to St. Kilda beach to celebrate the new year. Melbourne does this cool thing where they provide free public transportation from 6pm on NYE to 4am the following morning. Very cool, except EVERYONE apparently wants to go to St. Kilda, including us! We had to wait for an hour for a tram b/c they all kept passing us up and not stopping. We finally got on one and there was no air/con so between it being 107F that day and the tram being completely overcrowded, the ride to the beach was miserable! And to make matters worse, the tram stopped shortly after we got on b/c there was a tram way ahead of us that broke down. It was very uncomforable and miserable to say the least! By 11:30 we finally made it to St. Kilda only to find out the place we wanted to go was entry-by-ticket only and they were all sold out. So, we went to the nearest bottle shop and got in line to buy beer to take down to the beach with us. We had to wait in line but finally made it out of there with 3 minutes to spare before midnight. We quickly headed for the beach, cracked open a couple of cold ones and counted down to midnight! We made it just in time!!! For starting off so rough, the night ended up good and we got to see 6 sets of fireworks going off all around the bay from our little spot on the beach. A pretty cool way to bring in the new year, if you ask me!

We finished up in Melbourne on the 1st and flew out to New Zealand on the 2nd of January. Riding to the airport I suddenly realized I was quite sad to be leaving Australia. Our 5 weeks there were incredible and it was really starting to feel like home. I have a feeling we'll be back though - hopefully sooner than later!

More from NZ coming soon...

Love,
Renee & Chuck

(Pictures from top to bottom: 12 Apostles on the Great Ocean Road, Koala outside of Apollo Bay, rooftop drinks with Dave and Teresa at Cookie in Melbourne, us with April, Doug and Jodie McLean on Christmas day, us and the Smith's, us with the McLean's on the ferry, view of Melbourne from Dave and Teresa's apartment, bath houses on Brighton Beach, St. Kilda on NYE 2008)